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This week I had family business in Sydney which meant we needed to drive down and back rather than our usual flying visit. While we were in Sydney and drowned in red dust, we decided to take the long way home … the VERY long way home. Normally the drive either via the coast or the New England route takes about 13.5 hours. This time we decided to head far inland and enjoy the journey over a week rather than just racing the clock.

What struck me along the way was the difference in the country towns. Towns like Katoomba and Lithgow were like faded dance hall hostesses – you could still see glimpses of their early 1900s hey-day in the many boarding houses and hotels, but the paint was a little thick and the dancing a bit forced. Nature was as beautiful as always – but the towns that supported them were past their prime.

Then there were the towns that were functional, but seemed to be struggling – Orange and Dubbo fall into this category. Lots of ‘for lease’ signs in the shops and things looking a bit tatty. These are still pretty towns – and worth a look, but something was missing.

Some towns were straight-out frontier towns, with an underpinning edge of violence. Walgett was one of these towns.

Others were quirky and fun – Parkes and Lightening Ridge fall into this category.

But Bathurst kicked the mould. It was positively buzzing. Every shop was leased. The town centre was packed with people all buying things and chatting with each other. The houses were all well cared for and there council infrastructure seemed sound.

Bathurst is definitely a town/city on the way up and was the pick of the towns we visited. They have retained a huge majority of their historic homes and buildings, and added new buildings that don’t seem to clash with the history. We ended up spending more time there after falling in love with historic Sofala and Hill End gold mining towns (even with the gravel roads to get to them), and the brilliant Mineral & Fossil Museum.

So what makes the difference? It seems some of the country towns have retained their soul. Why?  I have no idea to be honest – but the difference is palpable. It is sort of like checking out a number of  businesses. Some have soul and you love being there, and others you want to walk right by.

What do you think? Why do some country towns keep their soul and others lose them?

Ingrid Cliff

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Heart Harmony – Freelance Writer